When amateur archaeologist Hiram Bingham led the 1911 Yale Peruvian expedition down the Urubamba river, never did he expect to find the Inca citadel of…
Easter Island Pt. 2: Journey’s End
Orongo and the Cult of the Birdman I returned for a third time to the top of Rano Kau crater to visit the ruins of…
Easter Island Pt. 1: A Far and Fallen Paradise
Midway between Chile and Tahiti lies Easter Island- an incomprehensibly remote speck of green in the endless Pacific. The Polynesian settlers discovered a paradise of temperate climate,…
36 Minutes in Santiago: A Secret Castle in the Sky
The last city I visited prior to Santiago was La Paz, Bolivia- where my first impression was that off post-apocalyptic LA from the opening scene…
The Gods of Colca Canyon
Arequipa, Peru is a hot, dusty city with a grand, white cathedral and an elegant Plaza de Armas for a central square. It’s best known…
Penguins and prisons at the end of the world
The road to Ushuaia Since arriving in Patagonia I’d been listening to travelers’ tales from people who had done a lot more planning than I had:…
Craft beer, game theory, and wilderness survival in Patagonia
The sun had slipped behind the western mountains and the temperature was dropping. The night wind had started to gust and I quickened my pace. I…
Getting Lost in Guatepe
“Tranquilo, amigos,” I said soothingly, but Bernardo and Brazos continued to circle menacingly. I’d named the two dogs- one a St. Bernard as big as…
Music to end a war: Aranjuez with the Colombian national orchestra
Tonight I experienced one of the most powerful musical performances I’ve ever witnessed. Pablo Sainz Villegas- world-renowned guitarist of Spain- and the national orchestra of…
36 Hours in Antigua- city of hipsters and saints
On the ride from Semuc to Antigua I struck up a conversation with an American girl, which went like this: “Oh cool, another American.” “You’re…